Costing and valuation of modern jewellery Suzanne Belperron

Suzanne Belperron, a French jeweller born in 1900, is famous for her daring creations, which have left their mark on the world of jewellery through their elegance and innovation. Her jewellery is distinguished by its avant-garde, sculptural forms and innovative use of materials and precious stones, from diamonds to emeralds and even rock crystal.

Often working with the Groene & Darde atelier, Belperron has explored movement and aesthetics in her work, ensuring balance and comfort in even her most imposing pieces. His jewellery, from engagement rings to cuffs, remains highly prized, reaching new heights at auction.

Suzanne Belperron, whose birth name was Suzanne Vuillerme, was born on 26 September 1900 in Saint-Claude, in the Jura region of France. She grew up in a region where the art of jewellery-making and diamond-cutting were an integral part of the local culture, an influence that nurtured her interest in jewellery design and creation from an early age.

After studying at the École des Beaux-Arts in Besançon, she moved to Paris at the age of 19. There, she quickly landed a job as a pattern designer and stylist at René Boivin, a prestigious French jewellery house. Her career took a decisive turn when she was promoted to co-director, allowing her to fully express her talent and unique vision.

In 1932, Suzanne Belperron joined forces with Bernard Herz, a leading gemstone and natural pearl dealer, marking the beginning of an era rich in avant-garde and innovative creations. Operating from private salons in Paris, she enjoyed total creative freedom, establishing herself as a leading figure on the art and jewellery scene.

Recognised for her exceptional contribution to the art of jewellery, Suzanne Belperron was made a Chevalier de la Légion d'Honneur in 1963. She died accidentally on 28 March 1983 at the age of 82, leaving behind a priceless jewellery legacy.

Suzanne Belperron's creations stand out for their high market value, attracting collectors and art lovers alike. Their appraisal requires particular attention to a number of criteria.

To value a piece of jewellery by Suzanne Belperron, specialists take several aspects into account. They start by identifying the designer and verifying the authenticity of the jewel through certificates, specific markings or historical documents.

The age of the jewel and whether or not it is a unique piece are determining factors in its appraisal.

The materials used, such as metals and stones, their quality, quantity and carat weight are carefully examined. The finesse of the workmanship, including the setting and the cut of the stones, as well as the goldsmith's work, the dimensions and the overall condition of the jewel are also analysed.

Comparisons with the selling prices of similar objects help to establish the market value. The jewel's association with a famous personality can also increase its value. For example, a ruby-set yellow gold brooch in the shape of a starfish sold for around €235,000 in 2018, highlighting the effect of provenance and rarity on price.

Prices for Suzanne Belperron jewellery fluctuate widely, ranging from a few thousand euros for the most accessible pieces to several hundred thousand euros for the most remarkable works. A platinum and white gold bracelet adorned with diamonds sold for $852,500 in 2018, and a pair of corsage clips sold for €112,500 in 2019, surpassing previous estimates.

It is important to note that the absence of proof of authenticity can reduce the estimated value of a piece of jewellery. A notable case is that of a silver ring by Belperron, initially estimated at between 600 and 800 euros, but sold for 3,700 euros following an accurate attribution. After obtaining a certificate of authenticity, the same ring was resold for 75,000 euros, highlighting the decisive role of authentication in assessing value.

Suzanne Belperron has left her mark on the world of jewellery with her innovative, sculptural creations. Her exceptional career, punctuated by her time at Maison Boivin and her collaboration with Bernard Herz, has given rise to a distinctive style that boldly blends precious and non-precious materials. His designs are characterised by clean lines, singular colour combinations and meticulous attention to movement and texture, influencing jewellery designers to this day.

Belperron's pieces are highly sought-after by collectors, a testament to his creative genius and enduring influence on the sector. Record-breaking auctions for his works attest to the vitality of his legacy. Whether you are a collector, an art enthusiast or simply a lover of beauty and innovation, Suzanne Belperron's creations are a fascinating adventure to discover and cherish.