Suzanne Belperron, an iconic figure of modern jewelry
« After winning first prize at the École des Beaux-Arts de Besançon in 1918, Madeleine Suzanne Vuillerme began her career as a designer alongside Jeanne Boivin. She hired Suzanne in 1919 to succeed her late husband.»
Thirteen years later, Suzanne, now Madame Jean Belperron and co-director of the Maison since 1923, grew weary of seeing her image reflected in the mirror of René Boivin.
In February 1932, she resigned, leaving behind an indelible mark. In the spring of that same year, her friend and confidant Bernard Herz—a dealer in fine pearls and precious stones—entrusted her with the reins of his company.
The talented Suzanne was then able to flourish freely. Bolstered by their exhilarating partnership, Suzanne would soon be among the most fashionable designers of the Roaring Twenties.
« Exotically, her work is characterized by creations with clean lines imbued with great sensuality. »
Her designs revolutionized the world of jewelry; materials and volumes sometimes grow without measures! The jewelry, extravagant for some, nevertheless remained elegant because her creativity never exceeded the limits of good taste. That's the key to the Belperron mystery.
Her prestigious clientele sought her out eagerly. Her order books testify to the patronage of royal families, aristocrats, bankers, and celebrities alike. Across the world, her creations have captivated the interest of many like the Duchess of Windsor, the Begum Aga Khan, the Maharani of Baroda, Baroness de Rothschild, Elsa Schiaparelli, Nina Ricci, Daisy Fellowes, Ganna Walska, and Merle Oberon, among others.
Many celebrities, with personalities sometimes diametrically opposed, often visited 59 rue de Châteaudun. Mallet-Stevens followed Gary Cooper; Colette patiently waited in a salon during teatime, while Suzanne finished meeting with the Countess de Beauvoir or Madame de Villemorin.
« Suzanne Belperron entered the circle of the most modern and enlightened female figures of the 20th century solely through the power of her talent. »
From 1932 to 1971, the jewelry of the "very Parisian" Madame Belperron regularly graced the covers of women's magazines such as Le Figaro Illustré, Femina, Vogue, or Harper’s Bazaar, as well as the pages of L’Express, the Herald Tribune, or the Toronto Star.
Endowed with a strong personality, the artist's motto was "my style is my signature." This explains why, unlike most great jewelers, she never signed her jewelry, which nonetheless continues to inspire many. On March 28, 1983, Suzanne Belperron passed away in her Parisian apartment. Twenty years earlier, she had been awarded the rank of Knight of the Legion of Honor, an official recognition of her talent as a jewelry designer.
La Golconde A unique place and preserved.
« La Golconde » located in the heart of Paris, hidden from view, in a quiet passage connecting Place de la Madeleine to Rue Boissy d'Anglas, this unique place is the sanctuary of Olivier Baroin, a specialist jeweler in antique jewelry.
This is where he offers vintage jewelry lovers pieces from Cartier, Boivin, Boucheron, Chaumet, Poiray, and Van Cleef. These renowned names are accompanied by more confidential figures highly sought after by enthusiasts worldwide, such as Jean Desprès or Janesich.
Olivier Baroin dedicates this privileged place to the designer Suzanne Belperron, of whom he acquired, in 2008, the entire set of archives necessary for the authentication of pieces; order books, drawings and sketches, workshop plaster models, etc...
On the walls, numerous gouache drawings and personal photos of the designer, now considered the most talented of the 20th century, adorn the space. Among them are some pieces by Madame Belperron, which delights enthusiasts seeking unique jewelry.
An unparalleled expertise
An expert in antique jewelry, is particularly referenced by auction houses regarding Suzanne Belperron. He authored the first monograph dedicated to this avant-garde creator who was sometimes provocative. Now, he focuses on authenticating pieces from this artist, highly sought after by a clientele of discerning collectors: wearing a «Belperron» is a mark of undeniable distinction.
Upon her arrival at René Boivin, Suzanne Belperron created innovative and captivating jewelry, incorporating materials previously underutilized such as rock crystal, chalcedony, carnelian, and high-purity gold (22 carats) which she preferred in a matte or hammered finish, which she herself described as "virgin gold."