According to rumor, Suzanne Belperron had burned her archives: this was only a legend...
Discovered by Olivier Baroin in December 2007, her personal belongings were lying dormant in an apartment at the foot of Montmartre—which had remained closed since her death in 1983.
Her furniture, her library, her sources of inspiration, her entire life was piled up there in disarray. Among a multitude of drawings, sketches, models, plaster casts, drafts, correspondences, and personal photos were numerous press articles signed by her hand and her order books kept daily from 1937 to 1974. Across the pages, one finds: the major European courts, the world of arts, finance, and the international elite; all traveled to Paris to seek the talents of whom they considered the most talented jewelry designer of her time.
The traceability of clients and orders is of paramount importance, especially since her jewelry—so sought after today—was never signed.
Tracing the origin of a piece of jewelry and its authentication
The archives consist of hundreds of plaster casts, sketches, and gouaches, as well as numerous correspondence and documents that trace her career. On 7,500 pages of registers, approximately 6,730 clients are recorded over the course of about 45,000 appointments.
The exploitation of these documents allows for tracing the origin of a piece of jewelry by the name of its initial owner and authenticating it (which was previously impossible due to hallmarks worn away by time or on a piece of hardstone jewelry).
The certification of a piece, crucial
An unauthenticated piece of jewelry may only be worth a few hundred euros, whereas the same piece, accompanied by its certificate, can fetch several tens of thousands of euros. Hence the crucial importance of having each piece referenced and certified (by appointment only).
Archive excerpts
Letters, manuscripts, sketches... the imprint
« Helmet » ring in smoky quartz holding a fancy yellow navette-cut diamond, set in yellow gold (Archives Olivier Baroin)
Mrs Harrison Williams adorned with jewellery by Suznne Belperron Photo Cecil Beaton
Extract from Mrs Daisy Fellowes' orders to Suzanne Belperron (Archives Olivier Baroin)
Registers of Suzanne Belperron (Olivier Baroin Archives)
Registers of Suzanne Belperron (Olivier Baroin Archives)
Set of drawings by Suzanne Belperron (Archives Olivier Baroin)
Extract from Suzanne Belperron's registers (Archives Olivier Baroin)
Extract from Suzanne Belperron's registers (Archives Olivier Baroin)
Extract from Suzanne Belperron's registers (Archives Olivier Baroin)
Set of drawings by Suzanne Belperron (Archives Olivier Baroin)
« Dôme » ring Cabochon sapphire, ruby pavé. Yellow gold Sapphire weight: 19.15 carats according to Belperron archive extract. Yellow gold setting.
Extract from a letter from Jeanne Boivin to Alix Vuillerme (Suzanne's mother) on 2 November 1923 on the occasion of her engagement to Jean Belperron: "...You would not believe how happy I am to think that the change in your little Suzanne's life will not deprive me of her presence and support - she is now a necessary active force and plays a major role in the artistic life of René Boivin...".
Olivier Baroin Archives
Olivier Baroin Archives
Photo Suzanne Belperron circa 1920 (Archives Olivier Baroin)
Extract from the last poignant letter sent by Bernard Herz to Suzanne Belperron from the Drancy camp on 21 February 1943, accompanied by his last will and testament. "I have no regrets whatsoever about staying in Paris, the absence will be shorter, if I had to do it all over again, I would do it again... I'm sorry for all the trouble I'm causing you, but that's all I'm doing when I would so much have liked to make you happy, thank you for everything. Bernard...".
Olivier Baroin archives
Mr Bernard HERZ
Suzanne BELPERRON
Circa 1935
Lady's signet ring set with a large oval table diamond in a closed setting. Openwork platinum setting with scale decoration enhanced with old-cut diamonds.
Marked by Groëne and Darde.
Olivier Baroin Archives
Plates from the Groëne et Darde and Darde Fils workshop collections (Archives Olivier Baroin)
The Duchess of Windsor wearing a double rock crystal cilp set with cabochons in a scrolling design (Cecil Beaton/ Vogue)
Personal image: Mum, Dad, Robert.
Membership card for the Société des Amis du Louvre.
Mother of Suzanne Belperron.
Suzanne Belperron's personal archives - Publication of Vogue in 1948 - Countersigned page dating the illustrated bracelet from 1935.
