The importance of volume in Suzanne Belperron's style

Suzanne Belperron, an iconic figure of 20thᵉ century French high jewellery, revolutionised the world of jewellery with her bold approach to volume and sculptural forms. His innovative work redefined the aesthetic standards of his time, having a lasting influence on contemporary jewellery design.

Belperron introduced new volumes into his creations, bringing a different visual rhythm to jewellery. Karl Lagerfeld, an admirer of her work, wrote: ‘She created new volumes with a different visual rhythm’. This three-dimensional approach gave her jewellery a unique sculptural presence, setting it apart from the more traditional pieces of the time.

Emblematic sculptural creations

Belperron's jewellery is characterised by organic shapes and bold volumes. For example, a ‘leaf’ set of sculpted amethyst leaves, rubies and diamonds illustrates his talent for combining natural forms with imposing volumes. This piece, created around 1936, bears witness to his innovative approach to jewellery design. 

Another notable creation is an African-inspired citrine brooch, designed in 1937. This jewel features a vertical central band, radiating out from each side in two rows of circular-cut citrines, reflecting the sculptural aesthetic dear to Belperron.

The use of virgin gold to accentuate volumes

Belperron favoured the use of virgin gold, a bright yellow gold rich in title, to accentuate the volumes of her creations. This material gave his jewellery a particular presence and luminosity, reinforcing its sculptural aspect. The pieces in virgin gold, such as the “snail” necklace and the drop-shaped earrings, illustrate this distinctive approach.

A lasting legacy in contemporary jewellery

Belperron's emphasis on volume has left an indelible mark on contemporary jewellery. His influence can be seen in today's designers who explore sculptural forms and combinations of materials, perpetuating his innovative approach to volume in jewellery. His work continues to inspire and captivate precious jewellery lovers around the world, testifying to the timeless relevance of his style.

By pushing the traditional boundaries of jewellery design, Suzanne Belperron has demonstrated that volume is essential to creating pieces that are both bold and timeless. Her innovative approach continues to influence the world of jewellery, affirming the importance of volume in the creation of exceptional jewellery.