Tourmaline in Suzanne Belperron's creations

Suzanne Belperron, an iconic figure in 20thᵉ century French jewellery, is renowned for her avant-garde approach and inimitable style. Her mantra, ‘My style is my signature’, reflects her refusal to sign her creations, believing that their distinctive design was enough to identify them. Among the many precious stones she has sublimated, tourmaline occupies a special place, testifying to her boldness and creativity.

Tourmaline, a gem with multiple nuances, was a source of inspiration for Belperron. She particularly appreciated its diversity of colours, which allowed her to explore new chromatic combinations. Her jewellery often incorporates tourmalines in vivid hues, combined with other precious stones to create bold, harmonious pieces.

Gold and pink tourmaline brooch

One of Belperron's remarkable pieces is a gold brooch adorned with sculpted pink tourmalines. This jewel is distinguished by its bold design, combining domed segments of gold with finely chiselled tourmalines, reflecting Belperron's signature sculptural aesthetic.

Retro tourmaline, peridot and emerald ring

Another iconic piece is a retro ring dating from the 1940s, set with tourmalines, peridots and emeralds. This domed design illustrates Belperron's ability to marry different gemstones to create jewellery that is both elegant and innovative.

Ying & Yang‘ ring in tourmaline, topaz and diamonds

The ’Ying & Yang" ring, designed between 1970 and 1974, is a perfect example of Belperron's use of tourmaline. This cross-shaped jewel is adorned with tourmalines, topaz and diamonds cut in a variety of ways, illustrating balance and harmony in design.

Suzanne Belperron's legacy

The appeal of Belperron's creations has not faded with time. Her jewellery continues to set records at auction, testifying to its timeless value and the enduring admiration for her work. For example, in 2010, a cornucopia brooch set with emeralds and diamonds sold for $674,999, while in 2011, a bracelet made of tourmaline, emerald, peridot, beryl, coloured sapphire and gold fetched $330,895. 

Suzanne Belperron's innovative use of tourmaline, combined with her unique approach to design, has solidified her reputation as a pioneer of modern jewellery. Her creations continue to inspire and captivate precious jewellery lovers around the world.