Aquamarine: The Reflections of the Sea According to Suzanne Belperron

From light blue to deep blue, passing through blue slightly tinged with green, the limpid aquamarine, with its delicate colours, evokes those of the sea. Suzanne Belperron made this gem one of her favourite stones, using it in remarkably bold creations that demonstrate her mastery of volumes and chromatic combinations.

Aquamarine: A Gem with Celestial Hues

Characteristics and Origins

Aquamarine belongs to the beryl family, like emerald. It is frequently cut in a rectangular shape softened by cut corners, but also in oval, round, square, bead or cabochon forms. This diversity of cuts allows Suzanne Belperron to explore varied shapes in her creations.

While most aquamarines are of Brazilian origin, some come from the Tangaféno deposit, located on the island of Madagascar, renowned for its intensely blue stones, unique of their kind. These Malagasy aquamarines, with their exceptionally deep colour, are particularly prized by the most demanding jewellers.

A Stone of Multiple Shades

The chromatic palette of aquamarine extends from the palest blue, almost transparent, to the deep blue evoking marine abysses. Some stones present slightly green nuances, recalling tropical waters. This variety of hues offers Suzanne Belperron an infinite field of expression for her creations.

Aquamarine Necklaces: Masterful Pieces

The Mosaic Bib Necklace

Like Jean Fouquet, Suzanne Belperron was particularly fond of aquamarine. A sumptuous bib necklace of oval and round aquamarines in mosaic, mounted in yellow gold, bears witness to this passion. This jewel is accompanied by a pair of earrings adorned with rectangular, pear and oval aquamarines, creating an ensemble of perfect coherence.

The mosaic technique allows Belperron to assemble stones of different shapes and sizes to create a striking visual effect, where each aquamarine dialogues with its neighbours in a harmony of blues.

The Baroque Aquamarine Necklace

A superb necklace illustrates Suzanne Belperron's creative boldness: composed of polished baroque aquamarines from which hang a cardinal amethyst and a rubellite, interspersed with an aquamarine. The hammered yellow gold clasp is composed of two round rings of lozenge section forming handcuffs.

This piece demonstrates Belperron's taste for unexpected chromatic combinations: the blue of the aquamarine, the deep violet of the amethyst and the intense pink of the rubellite create a striking contrast.

Aquamarine Bracelets: The Art of Volume

The Bracelet Cut from a Block of Aquamarine

One of Suzanne Belperron's most spectacular creations is a bracelet cut from a block of aquamarine, punctuated with pink pearls. This extraordinary jewel appears in American Vogue in June 1935, worn by a model in a sky-blue Chanel tulle dress. The photographs, taken by Horst P. Horst, are among the very first colour photographs of Suzanne Belperron's jewellery.

This bracelet embodies Belperron's philosophy: daring to cut a large stone to create a piece of exceptional visual presence, while retaining refined elegance through the delicate combination with pink pearls.

Aquamarine Brooches: Geometry and Precision

The Geometric Platinum Brooch

A platinum brooch with geometric decoration, set with aquamarines and diamonds, perfectly illustrates the Art Deco style revisited by Suzanne Belperron. This piece can be attached to a cuff, demonstrating the designer's constant concern to offer modular and versatile jewellery.

The rigorous geometry of the platinum mount contrasts with the softness of the aquamarines, creating a visual balance characteristic of the Belperron style.

Aquamarine and its Alliances: Bold Combinations

Suzanne Belperron loved to combine aquamarine with other stones to create striking chromatic contrasts:

• Aquamarine and moonstone: the combination of two stones with pearly reflections creates a harmony of cold tones of great delicacy
• Aquamarine and amethyst: blue and violet respond to each other in a sophisticated alliance
• Aquamarine and rubellite: the contrast between the cold blue and the intense pink of the rubellite creates a captivating visual tension
• Aquamarine and pink pearls: the pearly softness of the pearls softens the crystalline brilliance of the aquamarine
• Aquamarine and sapphires: in certain commissions, Belperron combined these two blue stones with different nuances

Prestigious Commissions in Aquamarine

The Jewels of Mrs Gary Cooper

Suzanne Belperron's appointment books reveal prestigious commissions in aquamarine. In November 1938, Mrs Gary Cooper ordered a bracelet in sapphire, ruby and aquamarine, as well as ear clips in ruby and aquamarine. These jewels were to be delivered to the Hôtel George-V, testifying to the designer's international and glamorous clientele.

Aquamarine Combs

Among the most original commissions were aquamarine combs, refined accessories that demonstrate Belperron's ability to elevate this stone in varied creations, beyond traditional jewellery.

The Importance of the Archives for Authentication

A tricky problem arises for all jewellery created in hard stones: these materials make it impossible to apply any hallmark. Only the archives rediscovered in 2007 by Olivier Baroin make it possible to trace the original order of the jewel and to identify with certainty the authentic creations of Suzanne Belperron in aquamarine.

A Heritage of Marine Light

By elevating aquamarine in high jewellery, Suzanne Belperron demonstrated that this stone with marine reflections could rival the most precious gems in elegance. Her aquamarine creations continue to fascinate collectors and achieve remarkable prices at international auctions.

The pieces exhibited in the galleries of Olivier Baroin bear witness to this heritage: aquamarine, a stone the colour of the ocean, becomes in Belperron's hands a material of absolute nobility.