Suzanne Belperron et René Boivin
René Boivin: The Birth of a Free-Spirited Style
At the end of the 19th century, René Boivin founded his workshop in Paris. A talented craftsman trained in engraving and goldsmithing, he quickly surrounded himself with exceptional designers and lapidaries to produce pieces that stood out for their originality. At a time when Parisian jewellery was dominated by classicism, Boivin forged a reputation as an avant-gardist, passionate about volume and natural materials.
The house’s success relied as much on mastery of traditional skills as on a constant openness to modernity: animal forms, botanical motifs and bold combinations of semi-precious stones enriched a truly unique stylistic vocabulary.
Jeanne Boivin: A Feminine Vision After René
After René Boivin’s premature death, his wife, Jeanne Boivin, took over the direction of the workshop. A visionary and astute manager, she brought new energy to the house and surrounded herself with promising creative talents. Her instinct to trust the intuition and style of her designers helped establish René Boivin’s legendary status.
Suzanne Belperron: The Spirit of Freedom
(Rock Crystal,Platinum and diamond bracelet, designed by Suzanne Belperron for René Boivin, 1932. Archives Olivier baroin)
Among these talents, Suzanne Belperron held a special place. Hired in 1919, she quickly became the creative driving force of the house. She pushed the limits of traditional jewellery: her sketches revealed an organic vision where the stone guided the shape. Unlike the rigid creations of the time, her pieces for Boivin embraced the body, highlighting the curve of a wrist or neckline.
Her influence within the workshop was so strong that even after she left in 1932, the spirit she instilled remained visible in many later collections.
A Signature Without a Signature
A unique fact: neither René Boivin nor Suzanne Belperron ever signed their jewels. This bold choice, far from being a limitation, fed the legend: discerning clients could recognise a Boivin jewel just as they could a Belperron piece at a glance. This discreet approach, far from flashy marketing, forged a distinctive identity that continues to inspire independent high jewellery today.
Iconic Creations
Among René Boivin’s most famous pieces are the serpent bracelets, the “sea urchin” brooches with mobile spines, and the feline rings with bold, powerful lines. These pieces surprise with their modernity and bear witness to the artistic freedom the house has always claimed.
Today, these jewels are highly sought-after treasures at auctions. Some once belonged to style icons such as Elsa Schiaparelli, Daisy Fellowes and influential patrons of the artistic and literary world, all drawn to this avant-garde style, halfway between art and nature.
A Preserved Legacy
The story of René Boivin does not end in the past. Its legacy lives on through historical jewels carefully preserved and documented, but also thanks to the dedicated work of passionate experts who ensure that this exceptional heritage is passed on and authenticated.
Olivier Baroin a recognised specialist in high jewellery and the work of Suzanne Belperron, now assists collectors, heirs and enthusiasts in studying and enhancing René Boivin’s jewellery. His in-depth knowledge of the workshop, its stylistic hallmarks and its archives allows him to offer a unique perspective to certify authenticity and trace the provenance of each piece.
A Legendary Duo That Still Inspires
The intertwined story of René Boivin and Suzanne Belperron reminds us how jewellery can be a free art form, liberated from conventions and faithful to an intimate vision of beauty. Even today, many contemporary designers and maisons proudly claim this heritage of bold volumes, fluid lines and deep respect for the materials.