Suzanne Belperron: A Visionary in Jewelry Design – Exclusive Interview with Olivier Baroin
Originally published on The Heirloom Curator, this conversation between jewelry designer Trang Do and expert Olivier Baroin offers a rare look into the world of Suzanne Belperron, one of the most influential figures in 20th-century jewelry.
Through his words, Olivier Baroin unveils the depth of her genius a woman of conviction, freedom, and an unmistakable artistic voice whose style remains as modern today as ever.
“My Style Is My Signature”: The Affirmation of Creative Freedom
Suzanne Belperron famously declared, “My style is my signature.”
For Olivier Baroin, this phrase captures the essence of her independence:
“She stood apart from her mostly male contemporaries. Her style combined femininity, sensuality, and an instinctive understanding of what women truly enjoy wearing.”
In an era when jewelry was expected to follow strict traditions, Belperron rejected conformity. Her designs distanced themselves from the polished perfection of Cartier or Van Cleef & Arpels to embrace something more personal — pure artistry.
An Artist Above All
Before anything else, Suzanne Belperron saw herself as an artist.
“At that time,” explains Olivier Baroin, “the world wasn’t yet driven by brands. What mattered most was the connection between artist and collector. With Belperron, every jewel was a work of art.”
Her creations weren’t meant to be flawless; they were meant to move you.
“Her style alone was already her signature. Adding an actual name would have felt almost vulgar.”
Like a Matisse painting or a Modigliani portrait, a Belperron piece is instantly recognizable — by its lines, its strength, and its grace.
The Secrets of an Inimitable Style
When asked what defines a Belperron jewel, Olivier Baroin notes:
“From an aesthetic point of view, it’s all in the forms, the materials, the compositions, and the color palette.”
Her boldness lay in her choice of stones. Instead of limiting herself to diamonds or rubies, she embraced quartz, agate, citrine, chalcedony, amethyst, and blonde topaz gems considered modest at the time, which she elevated through design.
For Belperron, material was meaning. She sculpted jewelry as if modeling light and volume. Each curve, each stone, was part of a dialogue between body and matter.
Jewels Without a Signature Yet Instantly Recognizable
One of the most striking aspects of her legacy is her decision never to sign her work.
“She didn’t see the need,” says Olivier Baroin. “Her style spoke for itself.”
This defiance of convention only deepened the mystery surrounding her name. In a world that already revolved around branding, Belperron chose silence and, paradoxically, ensured her immortality.
Her pieces are still recognized today by those who truly know: the connoisseurs, the collectors, and the lovers of form.
The Enduring Legacy of a Visionary
When asked which Belperron jewels are the rarest, Olivier Baroin smiles:
“It’s impossible to say. I’ve been working with her archives for seventeen years, and I’m still discovering new pieces. What we know today is only the tip of the iceberg.”
Belperron refused to be influenced, even by her most illustrious clients : Elsa Schiaparelli, the Duchess of Windsor, or Daisy Fellowes.
“She listened, observed, and designed according to her own vision. She created for them, but never through them.”
That independence a blend of humility and strength is what makes her work timeless.
Suzanne Belperron and Coco Chanel: Two Women, One Revolution
Olivier Baroin likes to recall a famous line by Karl Lagerfeld, himself a collector of Belperron jewels:
“Suzanne Belperron was to jewelry what Coco Chanel was to couture.”
Like Chanel, she liberated her art from convention, replacing excess with essence, and establishing a language of form and freedom that still resonates across generations of designers.
A Modernity That Never Fades
“Her style is timeless,” concludes Olivier Baroin. “If she were alive today, she would still be creating the same kind of jewelry.”
That belief captures the spirit of Suzanne Belperron an artist who transcended her time, creating jewelry as sculpture, emotion, and pure expression.
Her creations continue to inspire collectors, museums, and contemporary jewelers alike silent signatures of an artistic freedom that has never dimmed.